The next holiday was just a few days away and we had only 20kg luggage allowance for the flight. I wasn’t sure if we should save on my cosmetics (;-) or on the gear….but I opted for a lighter, newer gear instead. After all, it’s just impossible to tell a girl to cut down on her own necessities than on her climbing gear.
I quickly searched the web for a light weight rope and decided not to go below 9,4mm. (Hubby was gesticulating in the background that a 9,2mm would be perfect… but that fell quite on deaf ears. ) Our last rope was not impregnated. I was surprised how long it lasted without impregnation, but at the end, it looked like a coil that collected every crumb of dust it could collect with every visit outdoors. So the new one has to be impregnated as well. After comparing a few that could be the possible candidate, I decided on the Edelrid Falcon 9,4mm in black. Black is sleek, elegant and looks like a viper.
The rope came within 48 hours from my favourite online gear shop. Weighing only 58g / meter the rope was going to be a lightweight. Arriving a few days later at our holiday destination, I made my first onsight with this rope on a breathtaking 39m route! It was essential for me to have a thin, light rope for long enduring routes, where weight and timing goes hand in hand. I’ve seen many people optimizing their gears using lightweight quickdraws, good shoes and climbing clothings(!) which does seem to make them climb better but only the minority of them would think about optimizing their rope. If you tend to climb onsights, or make a red point with minimal weight, this is the rope for you.
Equipt with a grigri 2, that officially holds ropes from 9-11mm it was pretty much easier to handle a new rope than using the old grigri. You’ll still have to be carefull that it does not slip through the first few times, but after a couple of routes, the rope is great to use , not only for the lead climber but the belayer as well. The rope repels dust and dirt well. Even on wet condtions, it does not curl and stucks up on your belay device. The core and coat is impregnated, making it robust and long lasting. It is perfect to use in the winter for ice climbing or on alpine routes, and a good companion while onsighting, flsing or redpointing your route. The rope is marked in the middle so you know when to tell your partner it’s time to come down.
Priced at around 230€ for 70m, the rope is not cheap. But it ensures you a durable lightweight rope for all your climbs be it sports -, alpine – or ice climbing. Stay tuned for an update, after a few months of usage.
UIAA-Norm: Falls 6 – 7
Impact force: 8,8 kN
Static elongation: 8,3 %